Easter to me in England meant a long weekend, munching on Easter eggs. No Easter eggs here, instead people eat habichuelas con dulce - beans in a sweet sauce.
My first Easter week here I was working on the beach as a scuba diving instructor and the owner of the dive school told me that there would be no diving from the Thursday to the Sunday of Semana Santa, nor boats in the water. I assumed that it was because the Dominican Republic is a Catholic country and every one would be at church. How wrong I was. The reason that no boats are allowed in the water is because there is no room for them.
The normally quiet beaches become invaded as Dominicans leave their homes in droves and go to the beach or the river and party. And do they party. They start eating and drinking on the Wednesday afternoon or maybe the Thursday and don't stop until Sunday night. The whole country is one big party.
Managing the party is a tad difficult and so the government introduces a whole range of measures to try and keep things more or less under control. They close around 170 of the more dangerous beaches and swimming spots and over 35,000 members of the police and civil defense are on duty all over the country. Motorcyclists are mandated to wear helmets and there should only be 2 people on a bike. The passenger doesn't have to wear a helmet though.
Heavy vehicles are banned from the roads from Thursday at noon to early Monday morning to try and cut down on the number of accidents.
Even in the barrios, if people cannot get to the rivers or the ocean, they set up little plastic swimming pools in the street or their yard, and pretend they are on the beach, sitting in them and drinking all day.
Unfortunately even with all these measures, during Semana Santa many people always lose their lives. This year 38 people died, 31 in traffic accidents, 3 alcohol poisoning and 4 drowned. An additional 986 were injured; 687 in traffic accidents, 264 due to alcohol poisoning and 36 food poisoning. You really do take your life in your hands if you venture out onto the roads as so many people drive when they are drunk.
Not everyone parties, and there are some beautiful processions in the streets and many people do go to church.
It also seems strange to me that on the one hand there is this massive party going on, but on the other hand the Dominicans have some strict rules in deference to the Christian meaning of Semana Santa. For example there is no loud music allowed at all - the barrio became silent for four days. No meat is eaten on Good Friday, the colmado sold out of bacalao (dried salted cod) and arenque (dried herring). And a friend of mine sells barbecued pigs and had an order for one for a wedding on Easter Saturday which would mean killing the pig on the Friday. No one would do it. You cannot slaughter animals on Good Friday. So the pig had to meet his Maker on the Thursday and he spent Good Friday in her jacuzzi covered with ice and towels before being barbecued on the Saturday!
What an island of contrasts Lindsay! I was all set to book a flight for the party next Easter when you got to the deaths and bad news.
ReplyDeleteIt certainly is! The safest thing to do is stay put during Semana Santa and party at home. Drinking and driving is a big problem here, especially among the young.
DeleteDrinking and driving is also a big problem in Australia, but there is a points system for fines and these are doubled during public holidays, so people try to be more careful. Actually this year during the 4 days of mini-holidays there were a few accidents but no deaths at all in Western Australia.
ReplyDeleteThat sounds like a good idea. I think it is probably illegal here but no one takes any notice.
DeleteHi Lindsay ,
ReplyDeletethanks for another informative piece of Dominican culture. What I find so interesting is the contradictions that exist in the culture . On one hand the strict observance of this religious holiday but on the other hand the over consumption of alcohol during this " holy week". It almost seems as though the observance is more cultural than religious.
Is anyone addressing or concern about the safety of children starveling on these ridiculously over-crowded motor bikes. As a social worker in Child protective Services here in North America, I so want to say something when I am there and witness this act. However, I know its not my place.
The country is totally full of contradictions and yes you are right Semana Santa is one of them. There is no way a Dominican will kill an animal, but would happily drive drunk with the risk of killing people. I cannot see anyone addressing the safety of children on motorbikes as it is often the only means of transport and when you see mothers with newborns coming out of hospital to take them home on a moto with their families, maybe 6 on a bike including the newborn it does make you wonder. You are right not to say anything though - just appreciate what you have where you come from.
DeleteNow, apart from the road accidents, that is the way to celebrate Easter! It's always such a non event here. The most exciting thing about it is that the church bells don't ring since the chimes have flown off to Rome to see the Pope! I do a treasure hunt for the kids to follow to find their eggs, but that's kind of it! I would much rather party on the beach.
ReplyDeleteIt is great fun on the beach. Everyone is in the sea with their bottles of rum and the ladies have plastic bags on their heads. I do miss my Easter eggs though!
DeleteIt is definitely a sight to see. Unfortunately for me I haven't been able to spend a "holy week" down in The DR in about 20 years. Back when I was growing up this was a very solemn week and nobody would go anywhere near the beach or drink (except for Habichuelas con dulce)...then it started changing in the late 80's. People started going to the rivers and beaches, but only on Saturday and Sunday (Thursday and Friday were still very much respected). Eventually of course it just became one huuuuuuge party and even those days aren't respected anymore.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for that. One of my neighbours, who is 80, told me that Easter used to be much quieter and respected. I wonder why it changed?
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